A Levi's popular BIGE model, the 70505 denim jacket.
[Levi's 70505 Big E]
The ultimate denim jacket.
From the feel of the fabric and the fit to how to style it with slacks.
The Levi's 70505, also known as the "4th Model (Fourth)," a Big E version born in the late 1960s, has arrived at ARZACH KAMAKURA. We will introduce this garment, considered the prototype and perfected form of modern denim jackets, from every angle: fabric feel, sizing, and styling.
1960s Levi's 70505 Denim Jacket — Big E / Size 40 / Made in USA / ¥77,000 (tax included)
What is the 70505 (4th model)? – The pinnacle of denim jackets.
Levi's denim jackets follow a lineage: 1st (506XX) → 2nd (507XX) → 3rd (557XX) → 4th (70505). The 1st and 2nd models have a primitive form as workwear, while the 3rd model adopted V-stitching, establishing the prototype for the modern trucker jacket. The 70505, which appeared around 1967, is the "final form" that refined that design.
The biggest change from the 3rd to the 4th generation is the revamped silhouette . It shifted from the traditional boxy silhouette and short length to a slimmer silhouette with narrower armholes and a longer length. While retaining the ruggedness of workwear, it was elevated to a more urban and stylish feel. That's why, even 60 years later, the 70505 is still called "the most versatile vintage denim jacket for everyday wear."
What is Big E? – The "E" in the tab speaks to the era and values behind it.
The model that arrived this time is the "Big E" version, where the "LEVI'S" lettering on the red tab is all capital letters. Around 1971, the "e" was changed to a lowercase "small e," so the Big E is proof that the model was manufactured before 1971.
The difference between Big E and Small e isn't just the tab.
In addition to the design change of the red tab, the dyes used for the denim fabric differ between Big E and Small E. Big E jeans are older in terms of age, and are generally considered to have a more distinctive indigo color and a more pronounced vertical fading pattern. Big E jeans are also considered to be rarer as vintage items.
Furthermore, this particular piece has the three-digit "526" engraved on the back of the button. This indicates that it is a 70505 (4th) model, which differs from the single-letter engraving on the 3rd model (557XX). This is one of the details that confirms the authenticity of its age.
Fabric texture – a unique look imbued with 60 years of indigo.
The denim fabric of the 70505 is 100% pre-shrunk cotton denim, just like the 501 (denim pants) from the same era. Unlike modern denim fabrics, the fabric woven on the shuttle looms of that time has a unique thread density and weave, resulting in a texture that is difficult to reproduce today.
What's particularly noteworthy is the way the color fades, known as "vertical fading." Unlike the uniform fading common in modern denim, the indigo fades sharply in a vertical direction. This unique appearance is the one-of-a-kind charm of vintage denim. This particular pair has also undergone natural fading due to age, and the history of repeated wear is clearly etched into the fabric.
- 100% cotton. Made with vintage denim fabric woven on shuttle looms from that era.
- Because it is made of pre-shrunk fabric, it will not shrink significantly after washing.
- Characterized by the deep indigo color and sharp vertical fading typical of the Big E era.
- The natural wear and tear that comes with age creates a look that cannot be replicated in modern products.
- Unlike the 3rd (which uses chambray fabric instead of the same fabric for the flap lining), the 4th uses the same fabric for the flap lining. This is one of the distinguishing features of the 4th.
Sizing – Actual measurements and fit of SIZE 40
The size of this particular item is marked "40". The sizing for the 70505 differs from modern sizing; it uses American sizing (closer to chest circumference in inches) . Even with the same size 40 marking, there can be individual variations, so it's important to judge based on actual measurements.
| part | Actual size (cm) | Wearing guidelines |
|---|---|---|
| Body width | 53.5 cm | Suitable for those who wear Japanese sizes M to L, offering a comfortably relaxed fit. |
| Length | 61 cm | It's longer than the 3rd version. The length comes to the top of the hip bone or around the hip bone. |
| shoulder width | 43.5 cm | Shoulder width is wider than the average Japanese person's M size. |
| Sleeve Length | 63 cm | Longer length. It also looks great folded back to show the cuffs. |
A guide to choosing the right size.
The 70505 jacket is generally more roomy than modern jackets. In Japanese sizing, a size M would feel "slightly loose," while a size L would feel "just right to slightly loose." Considering layering, it's best to choose a size 0.5 to 1 size larger than your usual size for a balanced fit.
NOTE — Regarding the sizing of vintage items
Vintage items are cut using patterns from the time they were manufactured in the USA, so the armhole position and shoulder slope may differ from those of modern Japanese body types. We highly recommend trying them on in-store to ensure a proper fit.
Details – The details that tell the story of the 4th model
- Red tab: Big E marking. Asymmetrical V-type.
- Button back engraving: 526 (3-digit engraving indicates 4th generation)
- V-stitch: A V-stitch with a gentler slope than the 3rd type. Flows from the pocket to the waist.
- Flap lining: Made from the same denim fabric as the body. A characteristic of the 4th model, which differs from the chambray lining of the 3rd model.
- Bar tack stitching: Black thread specification (early models also had orange thread).
- Buttons: Copper-brown copper buttons. Sign of pre-shrunk denim.
- Side pockets: Located on both sides of the waist.
| item | detail |
|---|---|
| brand | Levi's |
| Model | 70505 (4th model / Force) |
| era | Late 1960s |
| tab | Big E |
| Button back engraving | 526 |
| Size chart | 40 |
| color | Indigo Blue |
| material | 100% Cotton |
| country of origin | Made in USA |
| condition | Used (shows signs of wear) |
| price | ¥77,000 (tax included) |
*Due to the nature of vintage items, please be aware of the above signs of wear and damage before purchasing. You can check the actual condition of the item in-store or by contacting us.
Styling – ARZACH's suggestion to elevate your look with slacks.
How to wear a denim jacket? A denim jacket with jeans, a denim jacket with sweatpants. Classic combinations are good, but the bottoms that ARZACH most recommends to go with this 70505 are slacks .
The casual feel of the denim jacket and the dressy appearance of the slacks create a contrast that adds depth and sophistication to the outfit. A vintage denim jacket functions as a "material imbued with a story" in itself, so simply pairing it with smart bottoms can dramatically change the overall impression.
ARZACH STYLING SUGGESTION
70505 × Slacks ― How to wear a denim jacket like an adult
Wool slacks × white T-shirt
By keeping the inner layer simple with a white T-shirt and pairing it with wool slacks, the contrast in textures between the top and bottom creates a relaxed yet sophisticated look that prevents the denim jacket from looking too casual and keeps the overall style neat. Loafers or leather shoes would be a good choice for footwear.
Linen slacks x T-shirt
A summery style from Kamakura. Linen slacks are paired with an Interim T-shirt and a 70505 jacket. The deep indigo of the denim jacket tightens the natural color of the linen and pulls the whole look together. It also goes perfectly with sandals (such as JUTTA NEUMANN).
Chino slacks x turtleneck
A look for early autumn. Pair chino slacks in muted colors with a turtleneck, and use the 70505 as outerwear. The vintage denim jacket's character is further enhanced by its combination with a more refined inner layer.
STAFF'S NOTE
"The 70505 Big E is an excellent choice, both as an entry point into vintage denim jackets and as a piece for any collection. Instead of pairing it with denim pants, try pairing it with slacks. This simple change of style makes the 70505 look like a completely different garment. Try incorporating a denim jacket into your everyday life in Kamakura in a sophisticated way."
ARZACH KAMAKURA
1960s Levi's 70505 Big E, available for viewing in-store.
You can try them on at our physical store in Yuigahama, Kamakura.
You can also purchase it from our online shop.
